STEPPING FORWARD: THE EVOLUTION OF MEN’S FOOTWEAR

STEPPING FORWARD:
THE EVOLUTION OF
MEN'S FOOTWEAR

Words by by Michael Phelps
February 7, 2025

Men’s fashion has always been a mirror reflecting the times, and nowhere is this more evident than footwear. Shoes are more than mere accessories—they are bold statements of identity, power, and artistry. From Saint Laurent's edgy Cuban heels to Rick Owens' avant-garde Kiss boots, the evolution of men’s footwear has blurred the lines between utility and high fashion.

Today, a new wave of designers is rewriting the rules, inspired by historical silhouettes yet pushing boundaries with daring modernity. Brands like Bode and Maison Martin Margiela have reimagined the past, blending nostalgia with innovation to create footwear that is as expressive as it is functional. In this feature, we explore the designers and trends redefining men’s footwear, offering a glimpse into a world where every step tells a story.

So, as you lace up, zip on, or slide into your favorite pair, we ask: what do your shoes say about you?

Saint Laurent

A true trendsetter in men’s footwear, Saint Laurent has always maintained a “rock n roll” edge for men. While they are always known for their classic “Cuban heel,” over the last few fashion cycles, they have introduced a taller heel with an “almond” pointed toe. This is a great silhouette you’d find on rock legend and fashion icon Lenny Kravitz.

Bode

An emerging American brand, Bode spent time referencing footwear from a different era in some of their recent collections. A men’s flat shoe with a silk bow at the toe shows the evolution of men’s footwear today by simply referencing its past.

Men’s Calf/OTK Boots

Over the last three fashion cycles, men have been given a gift from the fashion gods: calf- and over-the-knee boots. Very reminiscent of the past, over-the-knee boots can be tricky. Sometimes, depending on the body type and build of the person, choosing the right one can be challenging. Most brands use “high-quality” leathers that, once broken in, feel like butter. Rick Owens' “Kiss” boot has been all the craze, referencing the glam rock, faceprint-wearing, tall-boot-clad band from the '70s.

A Leader in Men’s Footwear

A leader in men’s footwear comes from John Galliano and his vision at the unisex powerhouse Maison Martin Margiela. Using references to ballet shoes for both men and women, and softening the approach to the traditional “Mary Jane” silhouette, a new persona was born. Galliano is ending his time at the fashion brand this season, but his presence will forever be felt, from head to “Tabi” toe…

AN EMERGING VOICE: BRITTANY BYRD’S VISIONARY IMPACT ON FASHION AND ART

AN EMERGING VOICE:
BRITTANY BYRD’S VISIONARY IMPACT
ON FASHION AND ART

Words by Shanice Gray
February 7, 2025

In this exclusive interview, Brittany Byrd reflects on the quiet evolution of her creative journey, sharing her belief that art is not something you choose but something you surrender to. She reveals her daily rituals, explores the delicate balance between discipline and spontaneity, and offers insight into her philosophy on personal style as the ultimate expression of self. With her signature blend of authenticity and passion, Byrd illuminates how creativity mirrors life—a continuous dance between light and shadow. A𝘰D sits down with Brittany Byrd—artist, stylist, designer, and gallerist—to uncover her perspective on navigating the world as a multifaceted creative force.

A𝘰D: Did you always see yourself as an artist? If not, when did you discover this side of yourself?

Byrd: I didn’t always see myself as an artist, but perhaps I felt it long before I could name it. It was there—quietly—like a whisper in the walls or a shadow in the light. It revealed itself slowly, in stolen moments: the way colors spoke to me, the way stories begged to be told, the way silence felt alive when I created. I think I truly discovered this side of myself when I realized art wasn’t something you choose—it’s something you surrender to.

A𝘰D: Walk me through your everyday creative process. From the moment you wake up to when you decide to call it a day, how does your creativity flow?

Byrd: I’m a big tea person; every day starts with tea. I pray and give thanks for a new day. I love a morning walk and rise with the sun most days. I love to start with movement. You have to move the energy through the body. From there, the day is a dance between discipline and surrender. I set intentions for what must be done, but remain open to unexpected sparks. Creativity rarely adheres to rigid timelines; it flows when given room, so I punctuate work with moments of stillness—reading, observing, stepping outside—to breathe new life into my ideas. Afternoon is for shaping—editing, refining, turning the intangible into something tangible. It’s where I ask questions of my work: Is it true? Is it alive? Does it carry weight? By evening, I reflect on the day’s efforts. Some days, the work moves mountains; other days, it barely whispers. But both are necessary. I’ve been traveling a lot lately, so the nights depend on what city I’m in.

“Chaise Lounge” designed by Brittany Byrd and Thomas Musca. Photography by Julian Budge.

A𝘰D: How do you interpret your emotions into your art? How do feelings like joy, sadness, or frustration find their way into your work?

Byrd: I’ve learned that to truly create, I must sit with each feeling, let it speak to me, and allow it to flow through my work unfiltered. It’s important to feel whole—not just focused on the positive, but to feel it all. I need some passion. When I embrace it all—the light and the dark—I become whole, and my art becomes an honest reflection of that wholeness. Art, after all, is where emotion finds its form, and it is through that form I make sense of myself and the world.

I believe personal style is the truest form of self-expression—it’s your signature, the essence of who you are. Trends, on the other hand, are fleeting—they reflect the moment, but not always the soul.

A𝘰D: Do you think it’s better to have a personal style or to keep up with trends? And how do you find balance between the two?

Byrd: To rely solely on trends is to risk losing your voice in the noise, but to cling too tightly to personal style can sometimes limit growth and exploration. The balance, I think, comes from discernment. Trends can be tools, like sparks of inspiration—moments that challenge you to step outside your comfort zone. But they should never lead; they should only complement. Personal style is the foundation, built over time, while trends are like shifting light—sometimes illuminating new possibilities, other times just passing through. To strike that balance, you have to stay rooted in who you are while remaining curious about the world. Know what feels true to you, what resonates beyond the moment. When you filter trends through the lens of your individuality, you’re not following—you’re evolving. And evolution is the most stylish thing of all. You see, I don’t follow trends—I follow energy. If it speaks to me, if it aligns with how I feel on the inside, then it’s mine. If not, I let it drift on by, like wind through the trees. Style, like spirit, is personal. You can’t fake it; you can’t force it. It has to fit—not just on your body, but on your being. And when you honor that truth—well, that’s timeless.

A𝘰D: How would you describe your personal style?

Byrd: My personal style is a reflection of my life as a living canvas—art in motion. It’s fearless, intentional, and deeply personal. I’m drawn to pieces that tell stories, that push boundaries, and that feel like extensions of my identity. Style, for me, is about self-expression without compromise. It’s mixing high and low, old and new, street and structure—finding harmony in what shouldn’t work, but does. It’s about celebrating individuality and turning the everyday into something extraordinary. Style isn’t just about what you wear; it’s about how you carry yourself, the energy you bring. “I WEAR MY TRUTH, MY CREATIVITY, AND MY VISION LIKE ARMOR.”

A𝘰D: If you had only 10 seconds to choose something from your closet, what would not be, and why?

Byrd: If I had 10 seconds to choose anything from my wardrobe, I could close my eyes and just grab random items. I’m at a good spot in my wardrobe where, even if the items didn’t go together, they would still work for me. “Reaping the benefits of taste.”

BLURRED LINES: THE DEATH OF TREND

BLURRED LINES:
THE DEATH OF TREND

Words By James Vaughters
February 7, 2025

Throughout history, style trends mirrored economics but, more noticeably, recessions. While past recessions required functional, need-based trends—like women’s workwear during The Great Depression & WWII—the current era tells a different story. We’re living in the "deep information age," marked by constant political upheaval juxtaposed with the most trivial of social media trends. Today’s style lacks unified immersive movements like those of the Black Panther Party or Punk Rebellion. Today’s style exhibits infinitely simultaneous micro-trends.

Today’s fashion is aspirational. In everyday life, the busiest of nouveau riche billionaires embrace simplicity in T-shirts and jeans, while youth gravitate towards trends of past decades; Y2K-core; the "quiet luxury" of the 90s; Hip Hop of the 80s, flared cuffs and exaggerated collars of the 70s. On the runway, heritage fashion houses strut out streetwear, workwear, and athleticwear, reflecting an era where clothing is valued less for being avant-garde or innovative but more for its perception and marketability; but is that so difficult to fathom?

So far, the New Millennium is riddled with relentless financial crises—from 9/11 and the 2008 Housing Crisis to COVID-19 and the Israel-Hamas. Real-world issues magnify the privilege of inhabiting cyber-reality. The internet birthed a generation with increased knowledge of past fashion aesthetics while subduing the demand for need-based recession trends. Millennials merely adapted to the recession; Gen Z was born in it. Unprecedented entrepreneurship ventures like social media influencing and streaming create direct lines between individuals and multi-billion dollar brands that transcend the aesthetics of recession. Data metrics force innovative ideas to be overpowered by consumer-centric marketing. Adaptation both by brands and individuals to the economic climate birthed a generation with access to the look of luxury, fast fashion, archive fashion, and beyond. Any aesthetic you want, you can find. If the aesthetic is too expensive to attain, there’s probably a ‘dupe.’

Lightning-fast trend cycles and infinite online style archives have killed what was left of traditional trend forecasting. Today’s style blurs lines between: high and low fashion, gendered clothing, and old versus new. Designers like Rick Owens and Saint Laurent embrace unisex collections, while streetwear meets luxury in collaborations like Dior x Jordan. Workwear silhouettes from brands like Carhartt and Levi’s infiltrate high fashion while Shein & Temu keep track of it all.

The late avant-garde fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen once said, “Fashion is not to be taken too seriously… It is not going to cure cancer or AIDS… It's just clothes. No matter what they look like, everything has been done before. It's about the way you do it.” 25 years of global upheaval have flipped the status quo of McQueen’s time upside down. Championed for his courage and rebellious nature, one can't help but wonder what a designer like McQueen would think of today’s clothes. Would he see today’s lack of style trend as a lack of originality, or would he applaud the democratization of trend even if the price is dampened creativity? As someone who seemed to understand the paradoxical nature of the human experience, whether impressed or unimpressed, I doubt he’d be surprised.